Barcelona: A Cookbook, a Market, and Salmonete de Gaudi

I’ve included the recipe below if you’d like to try it.

Barcelona, 20 February 2025

Traveling to Barcelona for the first time was a bucket list item checked off.

The first couple of days, I spent time on my own wandering the waterfront and the neighborhoods, taking in the views. The city felt easy to navigate, whether walking or taking public transportation. I was especially interested in the legacy of Antoni Gaudí in Barcelona. His architecture is a true reflection of the city, whimsical, flowing, and colorful. It is a vibrant place, full of energy, good food, and welcoming people. I felt comfortable there right away.

One thing I love to do when visiting a new place is find a local bookstore and bring home a cookbook as a keepsake. With that in mind, I found my way to Laie Llibreria Cafè and knew right away I had stumbled upon a gem. The shop was packed, people browsing every shelf, and the café was just as full. I took my time and eventually came across Spanish at Home by Emma Warren. I still remember sitting there, flipping through the pages for the first time. Barcelona has its own Catalan food culture, but Spanish at Home focuses on everyday cooking from across Spain.

The cookbook that came home with me.

I left with the book in hand and made my way to Mercat de la Boqueria. I have always loved food markets. The displays, the vendors, the energy all make the experience feel alive. Each city has its own rhythm, and Barcelona did not disappoint. The market was bustling. I found a seat at Kiosko Universal, ordered a few tapas and a glass of sangria, and sat there with my book.

What stayed with me most was the rhythm behind the counter. The chefs moved in sync, calling out orders, grilling, sautéing, frying, plating. It was fast, focused, and somehow calm all at once. It brought back memories of working in a restaurant kitchen. A part of me wanted to jump over the counter and join in. There is so much joy in the cooking process.

Between turning the pages of Spanish at Home, I started to notice the ingredients around me. Seafood, sardines, Imbérico pork, zucchini, beans, peppers, all the products that make Spain what it is.

Later in the trip, my husband and I had dinner at Cal Pep. We sat at the counter and let them bring out what was fresh that night. Plate after plate of simple tapas, each one better than the last.

It was different from the market, but at the same time it wasn’t. The same ingredients, the same rhythm, just a different setting.

It made me realize how much it all reflects Spain, whether you are standing at a crowded market counter, eating at a local tapa bar, or cooking a meal at home.

By the time I left, I was already thinking about getting back into my own kitchen. When I did, I started with Salmonete de Gaudí. After spending time wandering through Gaudí’s work, this recipe felt like the right place to begin. Originally inspired by Ferran Adrià, the dish reflects the mosaic colors of Gaudí’s designs. The simple, fresh ingredients highlight the sweetness of the red mullet and create a clean taste of fresh produce and the sea. I served it with wild rice.

Salmonete de Gaudi

Serves 4

Ingredients

2 to 3 red mullet, cut into filets with the skin on
Olive oil
1/4 cup red pepper, small dice
1/4 cup yellow pepper, small dice
1/4 cup orange pepper, small dice
1/4 cup zucchini, small dice
1/4 cup yellow onion, small dice
1/4 cup plum tomato, small dice
1/4 cup chives, finely chopped
Salt and pepper
Arugula, olive oil, and lemon for garnish

Method

Pat the mullet filets dry and check carefully for any remaining bones.

Brush the filets with olive oil, including the skin side, to prevent sticking. Salt and pepper the flesh. Place each piece on parchment paper or foil, skin side up to make transferring to the pan easier.

In a bowl, combine the diced peppers, zucchini, onion, tomato, and chives.

Spoon the mixture evenly over the top of each fillet, pressing gently so it adheres to the skin.

Heat olive oil in an ovenproof pan. Carefully place each fillet flesh side down, taking care not to disturb the topping. Sear for about 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove the fillets and return them to the parchment paper. Transfer to a baking dish and broil until the fish is cooked through and the topping and skin is lightly crisped.

Place arugula on a serving platter and drizzle with olive oil and lemon, if using. Set the fish on top, drizzle with more olive oil and finishing salt. Serve.

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