I have so many memories from visiting Paris, but there are certain places and neighborhoods I always return to. Every arrondissement has its own mood, and walking through the city can feel like stepping into entirely different versions of Paris within a few streets.
One of my earliest memories of Paris was seeking out Shakespeare and Company in the 5th arrondissement. Inside, I wandered through the shelves and little rooms for ages. The whole place feels historic and slightly chaotic in the best possible way. That’s where I found Paris Picnic Club by Shaheen Peerbhai and Jennie Levitt. Looking back, I think part of why I bought it was because it reflected the same contrast I love about Paris itself. A modern cookbook found inside a historic bookstore.
During a trip for our son and daughter-in-law’s engagement photos, we spent the afternoon wandering through Marché des Enfants Rouges in the 3rd arrondissement before ending the evening at Le Perchoir Ménilmontant in the 11th, a hidden rooftop bar our daughter-in-law found while planning the trip. The market felt busy and historic while the rooftop bar felt modern and relaxed. Completely different moods, but somehow both are still very Paris.
On another visit, we had lunch at Au Cochon à l’Oreille in the 1st arrondissement where I ordered suprême de poulet avec ratatouille. The neighborhood felt like classic Paris to me. Old streets, bistros, cafés, and people lingering over lunch. The meal was simple, comforting, and exactly the kind of French cooking I always remember long after the trip is over.
While making the Poulet Basquaise with Butter Rice from Paris Picnic Club, that lunch came back to me. The dish feels like a modern take on the same kind of classic French comfort food. Rustic and satisfying, but fresh and bright from the tomatoes and peppers. I substituted ancho pepper for the traditional Espelette pepper, which gave the dish a little spice and a deeper chili flavor. I cut up a whole chicken for the recipe and saved the backbone and wing tips for stock later. That’s my kind of home cooking. Nothing wasted and everything used.
Poulet Basquaise with Butter Rice
Serves 4
Ingredients
Chicken
1 whole bio chicken (3 to 3½ lbs), cut into 4 pieces
salt and pepper
2 tsp ancho chili powder
2 lbs plum tomatoes
olive oil
2 onions, thinly sliced
2 red bell peppers, thinly sliced
1 yellow bell pepper, thinly sliced
5 cloves garlic, minced
2 bay leaves
¼ cup kalamata olives, pitted
Butter Rice
olive oil
3 tbsp butter
¼ cup onion, diced
1 cup basmati rice
12 ounces duck or chicken stock
½ tsp salt
Method
Chicken
Season the chicken well with salt and pepper.
Score the bottom of the tomatoes with an X. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the tomatoes for about 1 minute, or until the skin begins to loosen around the cuts. Transfer immediately to an ice bath. Peel and roughly chop the tomatoes.
Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Place the chicken pieces skin side down and brown well on both sides. Work in batches if necessary so the pan is not crowded. Remove the chicken and set aside.
Add a little more olive oil if needed. Reduce heat to medium and add the onions and peppers. Sauté for a few minutes, then add the garlic, bay leaves, and ancho chili powder. Cook until softened, about 10 minutes.
Add the chopped tomatoes and simmer for another 10 minutes.
Return the chicken to the pan skin side up and add the olives. Cover and simmer for about 20 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through.
Serve with butter rice.
Butter Rice
Heat a saucepan over medium high heat. Add a little olive oil and the butter. Add the diced onion and cook until translucent.
Add the rice and stir constantly for a few minutes until the grains begin to look slightly translucent around the edges. Stir in the salt.
Pour in the stock and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer for about 18 minutes, or until the liquid is absorbed.
Let the rice rest for 3 to 5 minutes, then fluff with a fork and serve alongside the chicken.
Liz 'N Lux 