Afternoons in Paris

Recipe Below

I’ve been to a few places in France, but a fast train from Luxembourg to Paris at times is hard to resist. It’s about a 2½ hour ride and the scenery out the window is lovely.

I’ve been to Paris several times visiting all the iconic sites and museums, Notre Dame, and so many beautiful places throughout the city. Really though, it’s true, Paris in the spring is gorgeous. Trees blooming, folks out and about, cafés and restaurants setting up their outdoor seating, and parks filled with people laying out soaking up the sun.

Paris is a city to walk and explore. Each district has its own vibe and you really have to take a stroll to understand and experience it. Some of my favorite moments there have happened simply by turning down a quiet street and discovering a hidden courtyard, a tiny café, beautiful gardens, or some unexpected piece of art or architecture. Heck, even a long walk along the Seine is enough to know you are someplace special.

But what I love most about Paris are the moments where you simply slow down and take it all in. Finding a spot in the Jardin du Luxembourg or Champ de Mars and watching people linger for hours in the parks, sitting in the grass or laying out on blankets soaking up the sunshine, feels very Paris to me.

One of my favorite places in Paris is Père Lachaise Cemetery.

It may sound unusual to some people, but I find it peaceful and beautiful. Walking through the paths and seeing the resting places of artists, writers, and musicians makes you stop and think about all the lives, stories, and history that have passed through Paris.

Even on a rainy day here in Luxembourg, this meal from Paris Picnic Club by Shaheen Peerbhai and Jennie Levitt has brought me right back to those afternoons in Paris. Smoked ham, brie, and onion jam tartines with a crisp apple, fennel, and kohlrabi salad felt like something you would pack up and carry to the park for a slow lunch in the sunshine.

While there are several small components to prepare, most are simple and can easily be made ahead of time. The onion jam took much longer than the recipe timing suggested, but it was absolutely worth the extra time. Slow cooking the onions develops a deep caramelized flavor that really makes these tartines special. I roasted the garlic with a few thyme sprigs, which added another layer of flavor to the jam.

Kohlrabi is one of those vegetables I’ve often noticed at produce markets but had only used once before this recipe. I think many people probably are not quite sure what to do with it. Thinly sliced in this salad, it reminded me a bit of a mild radish with a slight sweetness and added such a fresh crunch to the dish.

Apple, Fennel, and Kohlrabi Salad

Serves 4

Ingredients

Salad

2 fennel bulbs
2 Granny Smith apples
1 large kohlrabi bulb
Mixed baby greens
Manchego cheese, thinly shaved
Candied walnuts

Apple Cider Vinaigrette

½ tbsp apple cider vinegar
½ tbsp Dijon mustard
¼ tsp ground toasted fennel seeds
½ tbsp honey
3 tbsp olive oil

Method

Make the apple cider vinaigrette by whisking all ingredients until emulsified.

Slice the fennel, apples, and kohlrabi as thinly as possible or use a mandoline for consistency. Toss the fennel, apples, and kohlrabi with the shaved Manchego, some candied walnuts, and the vinaigrette.

Transfer to a serving bowl and top with additional Manchego and candied walnuts.

Smoked Ham, Brie, and Onion Jam Tartines

Serves 4

Ingredients

Tartines

4 slices pain de champagne or sourdough bread, toasted
10 oz Brie, rind removed and sliced
4 slices dry cured ham such as serrano, prosciutto, or iberico
Zucchini sautéed with garlic, sliced
Butter toasted or roasted almonds, roughly chopped
Walnut and honey vinaigrette or vinaigrette of choice
Arugula

Onion Jam

15 cloves roasted garlic, roasted with thyme sprigs
2 lbs onions, large dice or thinly sliced
4 tbsp dark brown sugar
4 tbsp balsamic vinegar
Olive oil
Salt to taste

Method

Make the onion jam first. Heat olive oil over medium heat, add the onions, and stir. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and sweat the onions until translucent.

Stir in the brown sugar and continue to cook over low heat until the moisture reduces. If the onions begin drying out too quickly, add a couple tablespoons of water as needed. The onions should begin to break down but not become mushy.

After about 20 minutes, cover the pan again and continue cooking until the onions are deeply caramelized and dark in color. Stir in the balsamic vinegar, mashed roasted garlic, and salt to taste. Cook uncovered until the liquid has evaporated.

Cool to room temperature before using or refrigerate for later use. The onion jam makes about 2 cups and keeps well refrigerated for up to one month. It is wonderful as a condiment for sandwiches, burgers, or cheese boards.

Spread onion jam onto the toasted bread slices. Top with Brie, ham, and zucchini. Toss the arugula lightly with vinaigrette and place some onto each tartine. Finish with chopped almonds and serve.

Simple food and slowing down for a while. That’s part of the magic of Paris.