

From Istanbul & Beyond: Exploring the Diverse Cuisines of Turkey by Robyn Eckhardt
Years ago, I traveled to Turkey with my youngest son on an educational tour organized by his middle school teacher. There were ten of us altogether; six teenagers and four chaperones; and it remains one of the most memorable trips I’ve ever taken.
We began in Istanbul, staying in a boutique hotel in the heart of the old city. During the day we explored Old Istanbul. As part of the educational tour, we had a guide who led us to each place. Our guide shared the history of Turkey with such knowledge and pride that every street, monument, and neighborhood seemed to come alive. At night, I fell asleep listening to the calls to prayer drifting from the nearby mosques. It was an experience I carry with me to this day, and I can almost hear the soothing sound of it.


I fell in love with old Istanbul. It’s vibrant, welcoming, and full of life. We visited incredible places like the Blue Mosque and the Kariye Mosque, wandered through the Grand Bazaar, and spent an afternoon at the Çemberlitaş Hammam experiencing a traditional Turkish bath.


The Grand Bazaar was completely my kind of place. Stall after stall was filled with clothing, jewelry, ceramics, spices, teas, sweets, and every kind of treasure imaginable. I could have spent days wandering through it all.

Of course, one of the highlights was the food. That was my first real introduction to Turkish cuisine, and I was captivated. The spices, the array of fresh fruit and vegetables, the simple presentations, and the incredible depth of flavor left a lasting impression on me.
Making these Meatballs with Pumpkin & Spice Butter immediately brought me back to those memories. As I cooked, I reflected on my memories of Turkey and that trip. Remembering that trip with my son while making this meal made the experience even more meaningful. Sharing that adventure with him remains one of my most cherished memories. Food really does have a way of connecting us all.
It also felt like everything came full circle. One of the featured spices in this recipe is Urfa biber, a smoky Turkish pepper that I recently brought home after visiting The Spice House in Chicago. A spice that first became part of my travels through Turkey eventually found its way into my suitcase from Chicago and now into my kitchen in Luxembourg. Most of the cooking I do somehow connects to a cherished story.
For my version, I used two small Japanese pumpkins. I love them for their creamy texture and naturally buttery flavor, and they paired beautifully with the warm spices in the dish.
One technique, in particular, really stood out to me. Instead of mixing everything together by hand in a bowl, the ground meat is spread into a thin layer, then topped with the ground rice, onion, herbs, and spices before everything is chopped and folded together with a knife.
I’ve made countless meatballs over the years, always combining everything by hand, but this method was completely new to me. To my surprise, it produced some of the lightest, fluffiest, and most tender meatballs I’ve ever made. It’s a technique I’ll definitely use again.
The final touch is the browned spice butter drizzled over the roasted pumpkin and meatballs. It was absolutely sublime. The butter carried the flavors of the mint, Aleppo pepper, and Urfa biber, adding just the right finishing touch to bring the entire dish together.
This dish was comforting, full of flavor, and just a little different from what I usually make. More than that, it reminded me why I love cooking from the cookbooks I bring home from my travels. Every recipe has the potential to transport me back to a place, reconnect me with a memory, and create a few new ones along the way.
I hope you’ll give this one a try and enjoy it as much as I did.
Meatballs with Pumpkin and Spice Butter
Here’s my adapted version of the recipe I made at home.
Serves 4
Ingredients

For the Meatballs
1/2 cup baldo rice
1 lb ground lamb
1/4 cup onion, minced
2 tsp coarsely ground black pepper
1 tsp sea salt
1 tsp ground Urfa biber
1 tbsp dried basil
1 whole star anise, finely ground
For the Pumpkin
2 lbs Japanese pumpkin, peeled, seeded, and cut into bite-sized pieces
1/4 tsp sea salt
1 1/2 tbsp tomato paste
1 1/2 cups boiling water
For the Spice Butter
4 tbsp unsalted butter
1 1/2 tsp ground Urfa biber
1 1/2 tsp dried basil
1/2 tsp ground star anise
For Serving
Garlic yogurt
Method
Prepare the Meatballs

Place the rice in a bowl and cover with water. Stir well, then drain through a sieve. Repeat until the water runs clear. Cover the rice again with room-temperature water and let it soak for 1 1/2 hours.
Combine the salt, pepper, dried basil, ground Urfa biber, and ground star anise in a small bowl.
Drain the rice and grind it in a mortar and pestle until it resembles the texture of kosher salt.

Spread the ground lamb into a thin rectangle on a cutting board. Evenly scatter the ground rice over the meat, followed by the minced onion and the herb and spice mixture.



Using a chef’s knife, chop across the rectangle from top to bottom. Turn the cutting board so the short side faces you and chop across the meat again. Return the board to its original position and use the knife to fold one side of the meat toward the center, then fold the opposite side over it. Repeat the chopping and folding process until the ingredients are evenly incorporated.
Transfer the mixture to a bowl. Using your hands, lightly roll the mixture into meatballs. You should have about 26 meatballs.
Cook the Meatballs and Pumpkin



Place the pumpkin in a saucepan and season with the salt. Add the meatballs.
Stir together the tomato paste and boiling water until smooth, then pour over the pumpkin and meatballs.
Bring to a boil, cover, and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook for about 30 minutes, or until the pumpkin is tender and the meatballs are cooked through.
There should be a small amount of thickened sauce remaining. If the sauce is still thin, uncover the pan and continue cooking until it has reduced and thickened.
Make the Spice Butter


Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. When the butter is fully melted and bubbling, add the Urfa biber, dried basil, and ground star anise. Stir as the spices sizzle.
Continue cooking over low heat for another few minutes, until the butter is browned and smells nutty.
To Serve


Transfer the meatballs, pumpkin, and sauce to a serving dish. Drizzle the spice butter over the top and garnish with garlic yogurt. Serve immediately.
Food connects us all.