Manestra (Orzo), Ouzo, and Memories of the Greek Coast

While visiting Greece, it’s hard not to be drawn to the sea. Whether you’re on the mainland or one of the islands, the coast has a way of inviting you to slow down. Spending a day at the beach, soaking up the sun and listening to the waves, is one of the best ways to connect with the country. The Mediterranean sparkles in a way that’s hard to describe until you’ve seen it for yourself. The water is cool, the breeze is soothing, and time seems to move a little more slowly.

When we visited Rhodes, we spent quite a bit of time exploring the coast. One day we drove down to Prasonisi where the windsurfers and kite-surfers seemed to cover the water. At times it looked like they were all headed straight for each other, and I kept wondering how they didn’t collide. Somehow they always managed to miss one another. It was quite a sight to watch.

We also spent time at Afantou Beach and Anthony Quinn Bay. As we drove, we passed goats wandering along the roadside and small market stands selling local honey, fruit, vegetables, and baklava.

One of my favorite memories was taking the ferry from Rhodes to Symi. As we approached the harbor, the colorful houses came into view and we were awestruck. We spent the day wandering through town, stopping for lunch, exploring side streets, and simply enjoying being there. Like so many places in Greece, it felt both busy and relaxed at the same time.

After a day in Symi, we returned to Rhodes and headed into the old town for dinner. We ended up at Mama Sofia’s near the Clock Tower where we shared mussels saganaki, a traditional Greek salad, and plenty of pita bread. After a full day exploring and being on the water, it was exactly the kind of meal we were hoping for.

Some of our favorite meals were along the Afantou coast at Limanaki Seafood Restaurant. Sitting on the terrace overlooking the sea, we enjoyed queen scallops with a citrusy olive oil and lime sauce along with their traditional beetroot salad.

One of the things I enjoyed most about Greece was how naturally the food and the surroundings seemed to go together. A day at the beach, a ferry ride to a nearby island, or a walk through an old town often ended at a coastal restaurant overlooking the water. Fresh fish and seafood were everywhere, often caught that same day and prepared simply. Add a glass of local wine, good conversation, and maybe a little ouzo, and it was hard to ask for much more.

The slight licorice note from the ouzo adds an unexpected layer of flavor that works beautifully with the mussels and seafood broth.

I wasn’t quite sure what to expect from the ouzo, but it ended up being one of the flavors that made the dish memorable.

Ouzo isn’t just for raising a glass and shouting “Opa!” It brings a subtle depth to the dish that balances the richness of the mussels and the creaminess of the orzo.

The taste of the sea from the mussels, the saffron, the touch of licorice from the ouzo, the crunch of the fennel fronds, and the creamy texture of the orzo all come together in a meal that feels connected to the Greek coast. As I sat down to enjoy it in Luxembourg, it was easy to think back to Rhodes, Symi, and afternoons spent beside the Mediterranean.

Manestra (Orzo) with Mussels, Saffron, and Ouzo

Serves 4

Ingredients:

2 lbs fresh mussels in shells
Olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 bay leaves
Pinch of saffron threads
8 black peppercorns
8 cherry tomatoes, halved
2 to 3 fennel sprigs
6 oz ouzo, or dry white wine with star anise
32 oz chicken stock, heated

For the Orzo:

Olive oil
12 oz orzo
1 medium onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 red bell pepper, diced
1/4 cup fennel fronds, chopped
Ground black pepper, to taste

Method:

Clean the mussels thoroughly and remove the beards. Discard any mussels with broken shells. Grind the saffron threads in a mortar, add 2 tablespoons of water, and let bloom for 15 minutes.

Heat a deep pot over medium-high heat and add olive oil. Add the onion and sauté until translucent. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the saffron water, bay leaves, and peppercorns, and stir to combine.

Stir in the tomatoes and fennel sprigs, then add the ouzo and hot stock. Cover and bring to a boil. Add the mussels, cover, and cook until the mussels open, about 5 minutes.

Remove the mussels from the broth and discard any that have not opened. Strain the cooking liquid and keep warm. Set aside about a dozen of the nicer mussels in their shells for garnish.

Remove the remaining mussels from their shells and set aside.

Place a saucepan with a lid over medium-high heat. Add olive oil and the orzo. Stir and toast the orzo until slightly golden. Using a slotted spoon, remove the orzo from the pan and set aside.

Return the pan to the heat and add more olive oil. Sauté the onion until translucent, then add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the red bell pepper and stir to combine. Add the toasted orzo back to the pan.

Add 32 oz of the reserved mussel broth and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for about 15 minutes, or until most of the liquid is absorbed and the orzo is tender.

Add the shelled mussels and fennel fronds. Season to taste with black pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl and garnish with the reserved mussels in their shells and a few chopped fennel fronds. Drizzle with a little olive oil and serve.