Esch-sur-Alzette, Luxembourg
A Difficult Morning and a Change of Pace
The day started with an orthopedic appointment that left me feeling unsettled. I recently experienced a problem with my knee and received more news about it than I expected. I was still distracted when I met a friend and we drove to Esch-sur-Alzette.
Spending the afternoon together was exactly what I needed. A bookstore, lunch, and coffee, all in the company of a good friend. It was a simple reminder of how much community and connection matter.
We started at Librairie Diderich, an independent bookstore that has been part of Esch since 1945. It was opened by the grandmother of its current owner, Anne Diderich, and has remained in the family for three generations.
The bookstore has continued to change with the community around it. Café Um Eck was added in 2017, turning part of the shop into a place where people can meet for coffee, lunch, or Saturday brunch.
The shop has books in several languages, along with stationery, gifts, and a wonderful English language section. Rebecca, one of the staff members, helped us search for several books and found Good People by Patmeena Sabit, which we will be reading for the AWCL Book Club in October. We bought it.
Of course, I also found the cookbooks.
It was a lovely combination, and we thoroughly enjoyed browsing the shelves. There is something about wandering through a bookstore that puts a smile on your face.
Eventually, we decided that ramen sounded good for lunch.
Lunch at Happy Ramen
Gyoza and a comforting bowl of ramen at Happy Ramen.
Happy Ramen is a relatively new addition to Esch. It was opened in 2024 by Cheng Haili and Xu Chunxian, who previously ran Restaurant Gangnam. Originally from China, the couple brings some of the cooking techniques and flavors of their own culture to their ramen.
We ordered gyoza and ramen.
Ramen felt like the perfect choice. I have leftover pork ribs in the freezer that I plan to turn into broth, and this weekend I am making pork dumplings from China: The Cookbook. Lunch became a little inspiration for what I will soon be making in my own kitchen.
A rich broth takes time, but it can turn leftover bones into the beginning of another meal. I found myself studying the bowl and thinking about how I want to build the flavor of my own broth.
The gyoza also had me looking forward to making dumplings this weekend. I plan to give homemade dumpling dough a try, make the filling, and take on the challenge of all those folds. Wish me luck!
Coffee at Café Um Eck
Coffee and cookies at Café Um Eck.
After lunch, we returned to Café Um Eck, tucked right alongside the bookstore, for coffee and cookies.
Nothing about my morning had changed, but by then I felt lighter. Sometimes a change of scenery and time with a friend are enough to help you step away from your worries for a little while.
What Came Home With Me
A new Luxembourg cookbook for my shelf.
We left the bookstore with Good People for the AWCL Book Club and a new cookbook for me.
I came home with Baking with Anne: Seasonal Baking in Luxembourg by Anne Faber, the Luxembourgish cook and creator of Anne’s Kitchen. It has 75 sweet and savory recipes, including family recipes, Anne’s own creations, and traditional Luxembourgish bakes.
I am looking forward to baking from it. I already have several pages marked!
The cookbook may also find its way into my Cookbook Shelf project. Exploring Luxembourg through the recipes of a Luxembourgish cook feels like a natural addition to the places and food I am discovering here.
By the end of the afternoon, I had enjoyed ramen, found two new books, and spent a few unhurried hours with a friend.
It turned out to be a very good day.
Plan Your Visit
Librairie Diderich and Café Um Eck
2 Rue Victor Hugo
L-4140 Esch-sur-Alzette, Luxembourg
The bookstore is currently open Monday through Friday from 8:00 to 18:00 and Saturday from 9:00 to 18:00.
Visit the Librairie Diderich website for current information.
You can also find Librairie Diderich and Café Um Eck together on Instagram at @librairiediderich.
Happy Ramen
43 Rue Zénon Bernard
L-4031 Esch-sur-Alzette, Luxembourg
Happy Ramen is currently open for lunch and dinner every day except Tuesday. Visit the Happy Ramen website for its menu, current hours, and reservations.
You can find Happy Ramen on Instagram at @happy.ramen6.
What I Learned
- A difficult morning does not have to determine the rest of the day.
- Time with a friend can quiet your worries, even when it cannot solve them.
- Exploring a nearby town can provide a welcome change of scenery.
- Independent bookstores offer more than books. They create places where people can browse, meet, and spend time together.
- Helpful booksellers can turn browsing into discovery and help readers find exactly what they did not know where to look for.
- Longstanding local businesses can preserve their history while continuing to change with their community.
- Eating something in a restaurant can inspire a completely different experience in your own kitchen.
- Leftover ingredients can become the beginning of a new cooking project.
- A cookbook can help you better understand the traditions and food of the place you call home.
- Sometimes books, ramen, coffee, and a good friend are exactly what you need.
Liz 'N Lux 