Whole spices come together to create a warm and deeply aromatic blend.

There are many ways to make garam masala. For a few years, I have experimented with different spices and proportions, eventually creating the blend I return to again and again.

I originally developed it for my Tandoori Lamb, but it has become a staple in my kitchen. I also use it when I make butter chicken and different curries. Toasting and grinding the whole spices takes a little more time than opening a jar, but the aroma and flavor make it worth the effort.

From My Kitchen

• Toast the larger spices separately from the smaller seeds so everything heats evenly.
• Keep the spices moving in the pan to prevent them from scorching.
• Toast only until the spices become fragrant.
• Allow everything to cool completely before grinding.
• Store the finished garam masala in a tightly sealed jar.

The larger whole spices toast first.

Homemade Garam Masala

Ingredients

• 2 bay leaves
• 10 to 12 green cardamom pods
• 2 tablespoons whole cloves
• 1 tablespoon black peppercorns
• 5 grams cinnamon sticks
• ½ whole nutmeg
• 3 whole star anise
• 5 allspice berries
• ½ cup coriander seeds
• ¼ cup cumin seeds
• 8 grams fennel seeds

Method

1. Place the bay leaves, cardamom, cloves, peppercorns, cinnamon, star anise, and allspice berries in a dry sauté pan.
2. Toast over medium low heat, moving the spices frequently, until they become fragrant. Watch them carefully so they do not burn.
3. Transfer the toasted spices to a plate or bowl.
4. Add the coriander, cumin, and fennel seeds to the same dry pan.

The smaller seeds are toasted separately so they cook evenly.

5. Toast the seeds over medium low heat, stirring or shaking the pan frequently, until fragrant.
6. Remove the pan from the heat and combine all the toasted spices.
7. Allow the spices to cool completely.
8. Transfer the cooled spices to a spice grinder. Grate the nutmeg directly iinto the grinder, then grind in batches, if necessary, until finely ground.

The cooled spices are ready to be ground.

9. Allow the ground garam masala to settle briefly before opening the grinder.
10. Transfer it to a clean, dry jar and seal tightly.

The finished homemade garam masala.

How I Use It

This is the blend I use in my Tandoori Lamb, where it adds warmth and depth to the yogurt marinade. I also use it in butter chicken and curries, adjusting the amount depending on the other flavors in the dish.

Because the spices have already been toasted, garam masala is often added toward the end of cooking. It can also be used in a marinade when there is enough time for its flavors to season the meat.

What to Look For

The spices should smell warm and fragrant as they toast, but they should not smoke or become very dark. If they scorch, the finished blend will taste bitter.

Make sure the toasted spices are completely cool before grinding them. Warm spices can create moisture inside the grinder and the storage jar.

Make It Your Own

There is no single recipe for garam masala. The ingredients and proportions vary from one kitchen to another. Some blends are sweeter and more floral, while others are earthier or have more peppery heat.

This is the combination I prefer, but experimenting is part of finding the blend that works in your own kitchen.

What I Learned

• Toasting whole spices brings out more aroma and flavor.
• Larger spices and smaller seeds toast more evenly when cooked separately.
• The spices must cool completely before grinding.
• A homemade blend can be adjusted to suit the dishes you cook most often.
• There is no single way to make garam masala.
• A small jar of homemade spice can become part of many different meals.